Long Chun Art Auction

Going Once, Going Twice, Sold!

By Roane Beard

It’s 2:00 AM, and the people around me are shouting like madmen in Taiwanese. I can’t follow a word of it, but the gorgeous blue and white glazed porcelain vase on the auctioneer’s block is the center of everyone’s attention. The volume of shouting hits its zenith, then stops abruptly with the sharp rap of wood on wood; the sale is made, and the next piece is on the block.

It’s been going on like this since about 9:00 PM. People from as far as Taipei have come out to Long Chun Art Auction to snatch up quality artwork at bargain prices, and no-one’s planning on leaving until everything has gone up for bid. Most of the crowd consists of buyers for art retail stores from around the island. They come here to stock their shelves, buying items from craftsmen in Taiwan, Mainland China, Vietnam, and Thailand, then marking them up resale. The rest of the crowd are primarily collectors, who know that pieces at the auction often sell for a fraction of the price the stores sell them at. They’ve come to take advantage of it, knowing that they’re getting good deals without having to travel abroad to build their collection.

Two very large warehouses make up the site, although the auction itself only takes up a small part of one of them. But the rest of the space is put to good use. The first building is simply a flea-market style display area; items for sale are set out on wooden tables running the length of the building for potential customers to inspect. Typically, they aren’t sold on the spot, but are put up on auction later. Potential buyers come to check the items available and decide which pieces they want to bid on. This is a good place to come and look around before the auction, even if you’re not planning on buying; you can avoid the madness of the auction and get a good look at everything.

The second building is where the action is. Shops line the perimeter, selling to people who can’t find what they want up for bid, or who lose out to another when they do. The core of the building is loaded with beautiful wooden furniture, and could be an entire store in itself. But for the most part, people are crowded around the very front of building, sitting on crates, smoking cigarettes, and talking among themselves, forming a horseshoe around the wooden table housing the auctioneer and the items up for bid.

The auctioneer chatters ceaselessly in Taiwanese, and the crowd responds in kind. Prices run up until one bidder remains, who frequently tosses his cash right on the table to be collected by the auctioneer’s assistants. A crew unpacks items from a pile of crates that dwindles in size as the night progresses. A wide variety of artwork makes its way to the auctioneer’s block; the prices seem absurdly low. A beautiful three-foot long wooden junk is sold for NT$800. NT$300 buys a large black and gold porcelain vase. A foot-long reclining Buddha goes back in the box after the NT$700 opening bid isn’t met. Pottery, swords, statues and idols, opera masks, and furniture are all put up for bid. Usually, a price is reached, and the pieces are turned over to their new owners, but often they’re returned to their crates, unsold.

Mr. Huang, the owner, supervises the whole affair. He keeps a close eye on everything, directing the crew, watching the crowd, and giving the auctioneer instructions while double-checking everything against his manifest. It’s hard to get a word in edgewise with him. I give him my name card at one point, introducing myself, and he holds it up to the crowd and barks a few sharp words in Taiwanese. The crowd laughs, then everything is back to business with the next piece up for bid, and one of his assistants gives me his name card and asks me to call later—as I can see, he’s very busy right now.

The auction continues until the last piece is bid on. That can be as late as 4:00 AM, although usually things finish up earlier. Those wanting to escape the chaos—or avoid it altogether by coming during the day—should take the time to check out the numerous small shops in the building. You won’t get the deal you can potentially wrest from the auctioneer, but you can still find bargains, and without having to learn Taiwanese to do it.

The shops all focus on artwork, but each has its own distinct specialty. One shop exclusively sells teapots and services; you’d be hard pressed to find a better selection for sale elsewhere. Several others carry a variety of statues: wooden representations of kung-fu innovator Da Mou and red-faced Guangong, two warrior idols, are prominent among them. Intricate jade carvings of dragons and phoenixes, tigers and Taoist priests are all beautifully available.

Wooden furniture shops are nestled among the statuary and artwork stalls—although the furniture is arguably artwork in itself. In fact, the market is a good place to come for any kind of quality wooden furniture. The central floor of the warehouse is filled with remarkably well-crafted western style chairs and tables made from cedar, mahogany and cherry. Traditional cedar stools and tables are sold at Mou Yi Workshop, all of them hand made in Sanyi, one of the furniture making centers of Taiwan. Sanyi’s cedar is internationally known as fine hardwood. Japanese temple builders frequently come looking for the best wood for their projects. Mou Yi Workshop’s owner, Mrs. Chou, is a voluble and friendly woman. Although she speaks no English, she’ll happily sit with you, drink tea, and tell you about the furniture and statues that she sells. Most of her stock is hand made by Huang Rong Jou, an artist in Sanyi with a powerful and dynamic style; his Da Mous are particularly striking.

Long Chun Art Auction is a place not to be missed. Whether you’re interested in traditional style Chinese art or not, the experience of the auction is worth it. And if you have any desire to begin a collection, or even just pick up a souvenir, this is the place to look. If you come with the intention of picking up great artwork, it pays to know some Taiwanese. But if that’s not going to happen, then bringing a Taiwanese friend is a must. Either way good luck, and good bidding!

Long Chun Art Auction is located at 117 Wenshen Road Lane 292. From the Tainan train station, take Chengung Road west for about 10 minutes, until it turns into Wenshen Road. After you pass Jinhua Road, start looking for Lane 292 on your right; it’s across the street from a gas station, with a noodle shop on the corner. Turn right, and drive about 2 blocks. Long Chun Art Auction is the two warehouse-style buildings on the left, with the big yellow sign. Call for more info: 2804001-3.