St. Patrick’s Day:

Celebrating the Big Green Day in Taiwan

by Roane Beard

Taiwan could have used a St. Patrick. He was said to be an unusually charming man, so blessed with the gift of gab that legend has it he actually convinced the snakes to leave Ireland for the sea, something anyone who’s spent time in Taiwan’s mountains can relate to.

But it was the good folks of Ireland that enjoyed the fruits of St. Patrick’s influence, not the people of Formosa, so it’s in the west that people pin on shamrocks, quaff green beer, and gambol in the streets like those lads from Riverdance in celebration of St. Patrick’s eloquence.

Of course, St. Patrick’s Day was originally celebrated for different reasons, and with different rituals. Born in Roman Britain, Patrick became the patron saint of Ireland after devoting much of his life to converting pagans there to Christianity, a vocation at which he was particularly skilled. He built monasteries, schools, and churches during his more than 30 years of work, and eventually retired to live out his life among his converts. March 17^th marks the anniversary of his death in 461 AD, and for centuries St. Patrick’s Day was celebrated as a church holiday rather than the secular occasion it has become. Over time, the holiday spread to the rest of the world. Although the religious aspects of St. Patrick’s Day are lost to most people, the holiday still retains its distinctly Irish flavor.

Along with its music, dancing, and leprechauns, Ireland is renown for its pubs. So it’s no surprise that pubs all over the world have made St. Patrick’s Day their own, and in Taiwan it’s no different. On St. Patrick’s Day, here as in the west, the pubs are painted green and everyone’s Irish for the night.

Kaohsiung’s biggest bash is without a doubt the joint venture between the recently reopened Dick and Cowboy’s and long-time foreigner favorite Cheeky Charlie’s. Dick and Cowboy’s is starting things early, and is planning a number of specials throughout the night, such as NT$200 pitchers of green fosters and a free shot for customers wearing green.

“We’re going to get going early in the evening, about 7:00 or 7:30” said Perry Beam, one of Dick and Cowboy’s two new owners. He and long time friend Paul Tillinghast bought the place in January, quickly turning it into a popular hangout with Kaohsiung’s ex-pat community.

“We’ve got a lot planned,” he said. “Live music, green beer, shots. We’ll even have our own leprechaun. We’ve got a little Australian guy we’re going to dress up. Of course, he doesn’t know it yet.” Also planned is catering by Kona’s, a new addition to Kaohsiung’s western food scene. The menu features BBQ pork sandwiches with sides of beans and slaw, or veggie enchiladas for the vegetarians.

At 11:30 the party switches gears, with transportation provided to Cheeky Charlie’s. Owned by Australian Raice Nicholls and his wife Chi Chi, Cheeky Charlie’s has been a popular nightspot with a regular clientele since its first inception as Cheap Charlie’s three years ago.

“We’ve been doing a St. Patrick’s Day party for awhile,” Raice said, “but nothing this big. We’ve never done it with another pub.” Cheeky Charlie’s regularly packs in a crowd on a Friday night, and Raice expects the place to be packed, and to go on to morning. He’s prepared for it with live music, Irish stew, and of course drink specials. The first green beer is half-price, and there’s no cover all night.

Other Taiwan nightspots will be doing their own celebrations, of course. Kaohsiung’s DNA, owned by genuine Irishman Dermo Morris, will be one of them. Irish stew and NT$100 Guiness draft is the main attractions there, along with Dermo’s extensive collection of Irish music and videos, which will be playing all night. People who dye their hair green will get two free drinks. The Pig & Whistle will be holding bar games, and will have specials for customers wearing green.

Celebrations in Tainan are a bit more modest, with Willy’s Sports Bar and the Armory holding drink specials and wearing their finest Irish colors. The Armory is featuring buy-2-get-1 free big bottles of Carlsberg or Miller, and Willy’s is putting their new selection of Guiness Draught Cans on special.

So head on out. Irish or not, you’ll have a chance to join in the festivities and test your own gift of gab, meeting new friends on this one day of the year when everyone, Taiwanese or foreigner, is really an Irishman, and everything is tinted green.