By Roane Beard
Natural beauty is what Southern Thailand is all about; rugged mountains, unspoilt rainforests, ancient temples, and welcoming locals drew the first backpackers and sailboat cruisers in the 1970’s to Phuket Island. Since then, it’s grown into one of the region’s largest tourist sites, adding an international airport with hourly flights from Bangkok and a thriving community built on providing rooms, shops, and bars for the tourists. But it’s managed to retain the distinct beauty and charm that originally attracted people to the place. And for the smart tourist, it’s still possible to find serene, isolated island beaches on the cheap while enjoying the accommodations, accessibility, and island-resort atmosphere of Phuket itself.
An increasingly popular way to enjoy the inspiring beauty of Southern Thailand is to take your vacation off the beaches, right into the heart of the bay. Phang Nga Bay, situated between Phuket Island and Phang Nga Province on the mainland, is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. The bay is filled with the stunning, jungle covered limestone sea-mountains that have made the region famous. It’s great for day-sailing, kayaking, and, on the southern reaches, snorkeling and diving. Most of the tightly packed kos, or islands, are rugged masterpieces of mountain beauty. Rising to heights of up to 450 meters, the limestone-mountains jut straight up from the bay, seemingly inaccessible. But they have a surprise for you there. Each island is filled with hongs, the Thai word for “room,” and are backbone stops for most of Phuket’s tour operators. These caves often run straight through the islands, either to the other side or, in some cases, open into the verdant center of the mountain.
A
typical day-trip includes anchoring off islands with sheer cliff faces running
a hundred meters or more straight up from the water, then taking sea kayaks
into the core of the island by paddling through water filled hongs opening
into pristine hidden beaches. One of the stops, popular for it’s particularly
stunning beauty, is usually Ko Phanak. The hong leading back through Ko
Phanak is a tight fit for a kayak, but the local tour guides manage to lead
groups of three through, with the whole group almost laying down backwards to
make it through the cave’s low clearance. Feeling the way through the cave’s
dark enclosure is well rewarded at the far side; the tunnel empties into a
tranquil, natural sky-lit opening in the middle of the island. It’s completely
enclosed by the island’s rock face, and it’s the most serene place you will
ever visit. The acoustics are amazing. Tap gently on the right stalactite and
you’ll produce a chime of remarkable clarity reverberating off the cliff walls.
.
Most tours continue with swimming in the warm waters off a limestone beach, and a visit to James Bond Island, made famous by its appearance in The Man with the Golden Gun, is on the itinerary of nearly every tour operator. The island is still bizarrely beautiful, but it’s now home to a mini-bazaar, staffed by aggressive Muslim women from the village off Ko Pan Yi. Feel free to shop, but bargain hard—the asking price is often 6 to 7 times what the vendors are willing to take.
The good tours continue with lunch at Ko Pan Yi. Although it’s locally known as Sea Gypsy Village, it’s not one. The nearest community of Chao Le, or sea nomads, is actually much farther to the south. The village is entirely Muslim. Apart from selling souvenirs, the inhabitants make their livings selling seafood caught right up the bay from their homes.
Up the river from Ko Pan Yi is a noteworthy spot where the river cuts through the mountains, forming a water-carved mountain tunnel, perhaps the most spectacular in the region. Another spot on the river worthy of notice has a cave with wall paintings that locals claim date back to Neanderthal periods. A longtail water taxi can be hired at Sea Gypsy Village to take you to the best sights, often for less than 500 baht. If you’re there with a tour, it’s best to arrange a visit beforehand if you’re interested.
Of course, when you’ve had your fill of Phang Nga Bay, Phuket awaits. Go trekking through virgin rain forest on elephant back, then hit the island’s scorching beach scene, and spend the next day recovering with an herbal sauna and Thai massage. Whatever your expectations, you’ll find them exceeded. And come home wanting more.
Phuket is home to an international airport, and China Air holds direct flights from Kaohsiung to Phuket twice a week. Thai Air also flies from Kaohsiung, with a transfer in Bangkok. Contact your travel agent for details. For those of you without a travel agent, Jacqueline in Kaohsiung (7-2729302) speaks pretty good English, and in Tainan Ivy, at Dragon Tours (6-2160012), is usually helpful.
You can also try contacting tour operators in Phuket directly.
Phuket Watertaxi runs regular tours in and around the islands, and are available for hire. They also sell their custom made boats, if you’re really looking for something exciting. Tel: +66 76 270 562 Fax: +66 76 270 563 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.phuket.com/tours/watertaxi.htm
Seacanoe is an environmentally conscious sea canoe and kayaking tour group. They pride themselves in taking their clients off the beaten track to little known and visited locations in Thailand, the Philippines, the Fiji Islands, and Vietnam. They’re offering “Ultimate Millennium” package trips for the new millennium, so if eco-tourism is your thing and you don’t yet have plans for the big day you might get in touch with them. Tel: + 66 76 212 252 Fax: 66-76-212-172 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.seacanoe.com
For a really private and self-directed trip through Phang Nga Bay, charter a boat from Charter Yacht Sailing, with a captain or without. There’s no better way to see the islands at your own pace, while bypassing the tourist crowds. It’s not a budget trip, but it’s not as expensive as you might think. Tel & Fax: +66-76-289010 E-mail : [email protected] Website: www.charter-yacht.com